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The March of Money: Part VI

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The next year of Bhutan’s coinage was 1951, followed by 1954. In those two years, a confusingly vague kind of bronze coin came into being - it was not denominated, and it was not dated. I have no idea what the coin was called. These coins can still be found and look like the following:


1954 coin that was named 1 Pice in the numismatic circles

The following comparison of the two coins will reveal certain subtle differences in the two. The one on the left is 1951 issue and the one on the right is the 1954 issue. At first glance both of them look alike but the one on the right is lot more sharper in detailing.


Two different faces of the same coin

With the emergence of these 1951 and 1954 coins I felt that three repeated errors in the coinages had dealt a deathblow to the ill-fated Thala and thus was put to pasture. No such luck - it remerged in 1966. And this time the inaccuracy was even more disastrous - it was denominated 50 N.P. - meaning Naya Paisa - Indian unit of currency. Perhaps the Calcutta Mint people took upon themselves to name the 1966 Thala as 50 N.P. since the Bhutanese currency unit Ngultrum/Chettrum came into being only in 1974 when our paper currency was first released. The 50 N.P. Thala looked like this:


The 1966 Thala was no longer called Jatum Ched but 50 N.P. As of this mintage, the years of coinage ceased to be indicated in the lunar year

In addition to the 50 N.P. coin, the year 1966 also saw the release of 5 other none-circulating coins. The copper-nickel coin denominated 3 Rupees looked like thus:


Three gold coins, including a platinum one were issued as follows, to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of His Majesty King Jigme Wangchuck:

1 Sertum Gold


2 Sertum Gold


5 Sertum Gold



5 Sertum Platinum Proof Set


Between 1928 to 1954, there were a total of 6 milled coinages - but for the record we have only two years of coinages - the Tsa Druk (1928) and the Chaag Taag (1950) years:



Over the years we have named our currency units as follows:

Matum
Betum
Zangtum
Sertum
Ngultrum
Chettrum

The Thala was denominated “Jatum Ched”. I believe that “Ched” means half - what does “Jatum” mean? I am still trying to find out.


The March of Money: Part VII

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After 1966, there was a stream of coins that were released by Bhutan. It will be too lengthy to list them all. These coins were all legal tender but most were none-circulating coins. What is common among all the coins is that most of the mintage had errors on them. It is as if they were all struck by zombies without an iota of attention to detail. Look at the following problems:


1974 Food for All  - Chettrums 20 is wrongly spelt Chetrums


1979 Five Chettrums Bronze - wrongly spelt as Chhertum


1979 Ten Chettrums Bronze– wrongly spelt as Chhertum


1979 Twenty Five Chhetrums Copper – wrongly spelt as Chhertum


1979 Twenty Five Chhetrums Nickel – wrongly spelt as Chhertum

The following coins about which I have made mention in my earlier posts, had the following errors mentioned against each:

1928 Thala Jatam Ched– the word “Druk” on the obverse erroneously rendered

1929 Thala Jatam Ched– the year of coinage indicated is wrong – it should have been Tsa Drue– year of the Earth Snake (1929)

1950 Thala Jatam Ched– the word “Druk” erroneously rendered

1954 Bronze coin– it is neither denominated, nor carries a year of coinage

1966 50 N.P. Jatam Ched– the word “Druk” is erroneously rendered and it is wrongly labeled 50 N.P.

1966 Rupees 3– it shouldn’t have been Rupee – since the coin is Bhutanese

The following 1979 One Ngultrum coin is of two perfectly minted coin:


1979 Ngulturms One Nickel- Perfect!

The other coin on which a good job was done is the 1928 Zangtam– the coin’s markings are spot on. Additionally the engraver has done a superlative job in the engraving of the Dzongkha script:


The word "Druk" and the Year of coinage "Tsa Druk" is perfectly engraved

The last interesting notation I have to make is that of the 5 Chettrums coin struck in 1979. The design on the coin’s reverse is borrowed from the Betam coin of 1835:


The March of Money: Part VIII

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The problem of the errors in the wording or dating of our currencies is not limited to the metal currency - the problem persisted even in our paper currencies. Look at the following earliest three paper currencies issued in 1974: Nu.1.00, Nu.5.00 and Nu.10.00:




If you notice, the declaration of promise made on the bank notes read as follows:

“Chaang Khen La Nguel Ki Rup Chu Tham Toi Jui Khelang Yoed”
“Promise Is Made To Pay The Bearer A Sum Of Rup Ten”

There are two problems with these promises:

This promise is made by “Ngueltsi Leykhung”  - Department of Finance. The note is signed by Her Royal Highness Ashi Sonam Choden Wangchuck who was then His Majesty’s Representative in the Ministry of Finance. Thus, it should have been “Ngueltsi Lhenkhag”.

Mischief was intended when the term “Rup” was inserted because the Bhutanese monetary unit of “Ngultrums” and “Chhetrums” were already coined by 1974. Thus the promissory note should have read:

“Chaang Khen La Nguel Ki Ngultrum Chu Tham Toi Jui Khelang Yoed”
“Promise Is Made To Pay The Bearer A Sum Of Ngultrums Ten”

The next paper money was issued in 1978. They are not without mistakes either. The first Nu.100 note had rather perplexing markings - the monetary unit on the obverse of the note does not match the one on the reverse:


Bhutan's first Nu.100.00 bank note issued in 1978

The monetary unit printed on the obverse of the note reads:

“Chaang Khen La Nguel Ki Rup Chig Ja Toi Jui Khelang Yoed”
“Promise Is Made To Pay The Bearer A Sum Of Rup One Hundred”

The spelling of "Chig" (one) is also wrongly spelt.

Strangely the reverse of the note marks the denomination as 100 Nu

ONE HUNDRED NGULTRUMS is also perfectly spelt!

Other currency notes issued in 1978 were: Nu. 1, Nu. 2, Nu.5, Nu.20, and Nu.50. They had the following problems:







The currency notes of 1978 full of mistakes

The Bank notes are marked as issued by “Pelden Druk Zhung” – Royal Government of Bhutan. But it is signed by the then Deputy Managing Director of the Bank of Bhutan, Mr. Yeshey Dorji. But fortunately for this series of notes, the declaration of promise is worded correctly:

“Chaang Khen La Nguel Ki Ngultrum Nga Toi Jui Khelang Yoed”
“Promise Is Made To Pay The Bearer A Sum Of Ngultrums Five”

The other inconsistency is the manner of numbering the notes of this series. They are numbered with prefix: A/1, B/1, C/1, E/1 and F/1. The number D/1 is missing - no idea why.

As of 1985, the Royal Monetary Authority started the issue of the currency notes and they were signed thereafter by the successive Chairmen/Managing Directors/Governors of the RMA:


Among the first currency notes issued by the Royal Monetary Authority of Bhutan was this Nu.100.00 note released in 1985.

Until the year 2003, His Majesty's Representative in the Ministry of Finance, the Deputy Managing Director of the Bank of Bhutan and the Chairmen/Managing Directors/Governors of the Royal Monetary of Authority of Bhutan promised to guarantee the payment of the value of the sum mentioned on the bank note. The following series of notes seem to be the last where the promise to pay was made:



As of 2006 issue, that promise has been quietly withdrawn and the bank notes to this day do not carry that guarantee, leading one to wonder if the money is worth anything at all, in the absence of a signed promise. 😂😂😂😂:



A comparison of the two Nu.500 notes - one carrying the promise and the other without it:


The bank note on the top is that of 1994 issue where there is a declaration of promise to pay. The one on the bottom is that of 2006, where the promise goes missing. Both the currencies were issued by the Central Bank - Royal Monetary of Bhutan.

In the Nu.500.00 note of 1994, it is made to appear as if Lyonpo Yeshey Zimba was the Chairman of Ngultrums Nga Ja Thamba. As you can see that illusion is corrected in the later note of 2006 signed by Lyonpo Wangdi Norbu.

Bhutan's highest denominated bank notes:



Nu.500.00



Nu. 1,000.00

NOTE:
For the first and last time, Bhutan's bank notes were printed at the India Security Press, in 1974. Thereafter, notes released in and after 1978 to date are printed by the Thomas De La Rue & Co. Ltd. of the United Kingdom.

Just once in 1989, another security printer was used: Korea Minting and Security Printing Corporation (KOMSCO).

END OF SERIES

The Bhutanese Polity: In A State of Deep Moral Depravity

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“Bhutan has one MP for 9,000 citizens. The margin between those who serve our country and the population they serve is very narrow. In many countries, elected representatives will never get to know all their people, even if they spend an entire lifetime trying to do so. We have one elected representative for 380 citizens, one public servant to look after the needs of 14 citizens. As I have said before, it is not a question of whether we can do something or not, whether we have enough or not, whether we are permitted or not. The question is, are we going to do it or not.”
His Majesty’s Address to the 11th Convocation of the RUB
7 June 2017

The people of Bhutan elected DPT to form the first democratically elected government, in 2008. Five years later, the people decided that they didn’t do their job – they threw them out and elected the PDP to lead the way by placing them on the seat of power and governance. But the first thing PDP did was to spend precious parliamentary time discussing pay revision and parliamentary entitlements. They proudly declared to the world that Bhutan is the world’s only “carbon negative” country. Paradoxically, Bhutan saw the highest registration of motor vehicles during their tenure. By contrast, it was the DPT government who banned the import of vehicles, effectively preventing the abuse of vehicle quotas, while curtailing fossil fuel imports.

During the latest round of elections, the people demonstrated that they were unhappy with the PDP as well. PDP’s defeat during the 2018 elections was decisive – they did not even make it through the Primary rounds. DNT was the people’s choice. For a moment I believed that this lot of young and eloquent speakers was a set of lawmakers after my own heart - I even said so in answer to an American friend’s question on my views on the new government.

I was wrong – they clearly outdid the past two do-gooders: the just concluded National Assembly saw them spend over two weeks talking of pay revision and parliamentary entitlements.

The din and the cacophony of their verbosity reverberated the hallowed halls of the National Assembly. The eloquence was palpable; the august hall resonated with impressive words spoken with fluency and without halt. The pomp and pageantry was impressive. But what did not escape our attention was this: it was all too evident that the words and the intent behind them served only one purpose – their self-interest. The Parliamentary proceedings completely silenced out the one question His Majesty asked pointedly during the 11th Convocation of the RUB:

The question is, are we going to do it or not.

The question was completely ignored!

The 2nd session of the 3rdParliament has come to an end. The lawmakers are now all set to submit the records of the proceedings and the resolutions thereof, to His Majesty the King, for His Royal assent, for their resolutions to come into effect as law. And this is where I believe that the Parliamentarians have failed in their responsibility to protect and preserve the sanctity and the inviolability of the Crown, which is the responsibility of every single Bhutanese.

My reasoning is simple: This lot of Parliamentarians – as did those others before them – will be submitting to the King for His Royal assent - something that they know very well will be misused and abused blatantly, as they have been done for the past many decades. The Parliamentarians will, collectively, be submitting to the King to accord His Royal assent – their resolution on the 4th Pay Commission’s Pay Revision recommendations. These recommendations would contain an inconspicuous matter dealing with vehicle quota entitlement and/or encashment thereof.

Now, my question to the Parliamentarians is this: Are you being His loyal and trusted subjects in seeking his Royal assent, on something that you are certain will unfailingly be abused? Do you do it because you know that His Majesty would consider it inappropriate for Him to take away a kidu, even if awarded by those in whose domain it is not to grant undeserved kidu?

Frankly I believe that pay raise is the prerogative of the incumbent government – I have no issues with it – if the government feels that they have the wherewithal to pay Nu.100,000.00 to a junior clerk, they are welcome to it. But certainly awarding underserved kidu is outside their domain.

Award of quota to some, in preference over others, is in itself an act of segregation among equals. This should never happen in a society that prides itself as a thinking society. However, if the government must, they should do so with a bit of intelligence. What the DNT government has done is worst than what it already was. While glibly putting out the falsehood that they have rationalized the underserved quota entitlement, they have in fact aggravated the problem even further.

On the one hand, the monetized value of Nu.250,000.00 for the public servants is far more than what they were getting for their quota sold illegally in the open market. The fixation of monetization value of the MP’s and the Cabinet Ministers’ and others at Nu.1,500,000.00 seems to have been derived from its black market value that ruled in the last year.

The DNT’s recommendations on the vehicle quota are terribly flawed, in addition to being unfair and costly for the country. The following is how I see it:

If the civil servants and the MPs and the Ministers get more than the monetized value of their quota from the open market, they will go ahead and shamelessly sell their quota in the open market and make tidy sums of undeserved monetary benefit. However, if they do not get their asking price, which would be higher than the monetized value of their quota, they will do a quick turn around and offer to sell their quota to the government, at the monetized sum. The government has no choice but to buy the quota and pay the recipients the monetized value of the quota, as promised.

This transection is not only profane – but there is another immoral side to it: the government is in effect helping the unjustified quota recipients to turn ill-gotten gains into legitimate money, by enchasing the quota.

It is sad.

There are a select number of people on whom His Majesty placed His trust and faith. He has adorned them with Bura Marp and Patang and put them in positions of authority and responsibility. He has 5 eminent Members in the National Council - to do things and direct affairs in a way He envisions for the country and the people of Bhutan. This privileged lot should, by virtue of being hand picked by the King, ensure that good counsel is provided to the erring politicians and the civil service. Punishingly costly recommendations such as the vehicle quota entitlement should have never been allowed to find its way into the Parliamentary resolutions. But it has – and it is now all poised for Royal assent.

This lot has failed the King and the country, as have others before them – His Majesty’s trust and faith was clearly misplaced - they failed to do what the King thought they would, on His behalf. They failed to comprehend that the King is the dispenser of kidu - not a usurper of it.

I have said this many a times in the past - that given our population size, all that we need is just 10 hard working people to propel this country to unmatched glory. Unfortunately we have only one out of the ten needed, who is working tirelessly. The rest are vile opportunists, with the country's interest furthest from their agenda!

A Thank You Note From A Grateful Beneficiary

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It is very heart warming when your endeavors are acknowledged. The Rotary Club of Thimphu has been supporting a number of schools, communities and farmer groups for the past few years.

In grateful appreciation, one community had sent us bags of rice grown from the fields we had helped protect from wild life predation, through the installation of solar fencing. Another had delivered sack-load of watermelons that they grew from the farm they tilled with the tractor and power tiller we donated. And yesterday, I received the following mail from a farmers’ group from Chhukha, expressing their gratitude for our donation of a delivery van that helped them market their farm produce.

It certainly is heartwarming that Rotary Club of Thimphu is bringing benefit and change to those who stand in need.


3 Jul 2019, 10:54 (21 hours ago)

Respected sir,
The entire team of Greenhands would like to firstly express our heartfelt gratitude to Sir and Rotary Club of Thimphu as a whole for supporting us with a marketing van (Mahindra Bolero Pik-up Van) last August.

We are indeed pleased to inform RCT that with the supported provided we are able to supply vegetables and other local farm produce to Phuntsholing Thromday besides helping other farmers market their farm produce through our marketing channel.

The primary objective of the marketing channel is to institutionalize a sustainable marketing channel for local farm produce and promote ethical buying practice with the locality of Phuntsholing.

With the help of the Marketing Van, we were able to establish a new marketing channel using online portal for our customers in Phuntsholing. Using our online portal (Wechat group and Google form) we receive pre-orders from our customer and subsequently individual packages are being prepared and delivered at their convenience. As of now, we are able to deliver our products to officials of 8 government and corporate offices. In addition, we are also able to recruit few new members to our team.

We are optimistic and hopeful  that with support and guidance from Sir Sangay Thinley (Economic Development Officer, Chhukha), we'll be provided  with financial support through PSL and will be able to open a distribution point at Phuntsholing Thromday which will further help us increase our customer base, sales and at the same time create more employment opportunities.

With Much Gratitude

Kinnzang
Chairperson
Greenhands

The Mystery Canal Rears Its Head

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On 24th June, 2019 I was informed of the report in thethirdpole.net, about the response by our Prime Minister on the matter relating to Sankosh reservoir project during his recent visit to India. I am happy that the Prime Minister merely states “reservoir project” and not Sankosh Reservoir Hydropower Project. I would like to believe that there is a huge difference in the two.

First, the government has already declared on the floor of the Parliament that there will be no further hydropower projects – until those in the pipeline are completed and brought on stream. Thus the Prime Minister could not have done an about turn on a Parliamentary decision largely influenced by his party.

Second, the Prime Minister is fully aware that India is now electricity surplus and ranks among the top four electricity producers in the world. They are all set to export electricity.

Third, the Prime Minister should be aware that India is in the forefront of alternate energy production, such as solar, wind, thermal and nuclear. Because of the declining cost of production of other energy sources, hydroelectricity represents merely 13% of India’s total installed capacity, as of December, 2018. This will drop even further in the coming years.

Fourth, technologies in the production of alternate energy such as solar and wind has advanced so much that they are now the cheapest to produce – not hydro - atleast in China and India:


Soon, hydroelectricity production technology will be obsolete, in addition to being costly, as well as, environmentally disastrous.

Fifth, global warming is causing ice melt at an alarming rate, causing unpredictable shifts in weather patterns, and altering water flows.

Sixth, hydropower projects take many years to build – Punasangchhu-I was started in 2008 and after 12 years, it is still not even half done. They are prone to cost overruns and subject to geological surprises and environmental destruction.

Seventh, the Prime Minister would be aware that if a 1,200 MW project could take over 20 years to build, Sankosh at about 4 times the size would take half a century to build. By then electricity as we know now may no longer be in existence.

That brings us to the question: Then why talk of Sankosh Reservoir Project at all? The answer I think is the “mystery canal” that thethridpole.com talks about. I think the Prime Minister was talking of doing a water reservoir project – not hydropower project – in line with India’s grand plan of the Manas-Sankosh-Tista-Ganga Link Project:



This project would make sense to India as well as Bhutan. India will benefit in terms of mitigating the increasing threat to their water security, given the recent developments in the third pole region. Flood control is another aspect to this project.

Bhutan will benefit since we do not have to pay for the construction of the project - at 10% interest. If India wants to do a water reservoir project - we should allow them, as a goodwill gesture between two long-standing friends. However, we should impose one condition:

There should be absolutely no hydropower project linked to the Sankosh Reservior Project. Doing so would cause us to be straddled with 70% loan at 10% interest and with no management control over the construction of the project. It is for this reason that I have been making noise for over a decade not to shackle our river systems with loans that do not benefit the people - not even the government - and a financial burden that we do not need.

Our water in it natural form should be even more precious to us, and to others.

Take Tourism To The Top: An American Leads The Way

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From written records available, there is proof that the Department of Tourism (DoT) was created in 1971, as a Department under the Ministry of Finance. The order was signed by HRH Ashi Sonam Choden Wangchuck, His Majesty’s Representative in the Ministry of Finance. However, living witnesses bear testimony to the fact that tourism activity was nonexistent until October of 1974, when the first paying tourists arrived Bhutan.

The tour group was led by an American of Swedish descend - Mr. Lars-Eric Lindblad, founder of Lindblad Travel, Connecticut, USA. Before that the only guests were those of the Royal family and, in very rare cases, those of the Royal Government of Bhutan.

Mr. Nim Gyaltshen, one of Bhutan's first 10 tour guides - now a part owner of Etho Metho Tours - remembers that Lars-Eric Lindblad paid a Minimum Daily Tariff of US$130.00 per day per person.


Mr. Lars-Eric Lindblad of Lindblad Travel, ConnecticutUSA led the first tour group to Bhutan in October, 1974

Mr. Karma Sonam - then a strapping young lad of 22 years, recalls that the tour group entered Bhutan through Nepal, organized by Rana Travels, Kathmandu. Karma Sonam took up the job of a guesthouse waiter at the government guest house in Motithang, in the year 1971 - when he was just 19 years old. He now operates a laundry service in Thimphu:


Mr. Karma Sonam worked in the hospitality industry since 1971. He served lunch to the first tour group at Chapcha View Point

The first Director of the Department of Tourism was late Dasho Tseten Dorji – who also doubled as the Personal Secretary to HRH Ashi Sonam Choden Wanghuck. Karma Sonam vividly remembers that Dasho Tseten Dorji went down all the way to Kharbandi Hotel in Phuentsholing - to conduct Bhutan’s first tour group, headed by Mr. Lars-Eric Lindblad to Thimphu. The group stopped at Chasilakha where they were served tea, in a teahouse that was built for the dignitaries attending the Coronation of 2nd June, 1974. Karma Sonam carried lunch from Thimphu and met the group at the Chapcha View Point.

Karma Sonam does not remember if the tour group attended Thimphu Tsechu/Dromche - but I believe that they would have – which would explain their choice of October month to make the trip to Bhutan.

Ten of Bhutan's earliest tour guides were recruited on 1st January 1974. They were:

1.Gandhi Nawang Dorji of Nawang Woods
2.Nim Gyaltshen of Etho Metho Tours
3.Karchung of Lhomen Tours
4.Late Kheng Sonam
5.Aku Chewang
6.Pema Chophel
7.Tseten Gyeltshen
8.Kinley Wangdi
9.Rapey Kinga
10.Kunzang Wangchuk

These ten received rudimentary guiding training so that they could be used to take care of the VIPs attending the Coronation ceremony of 2nd June, 1974.

Another senior tourism personality – Mr. Robin Wangdi - remembers that the Department of Tourism, headed by Dasho Tseten Dorji as its Director functioned as a commercial tour operator since its start in 1974.


Mr. Robin Wangdi, one of the earliest tourism personalities of the country. He joined the industry in 1979.

The DoT had a number of Divisions functioning under it:

~Hotel Division, headed by Mr. Sonam Dhendup Tshering, part owner of Rinchen High School.
~Tourism Project Division, headed by late Mr. Dorji Gyaltshen.
~Tourism Commercial Organization, headed by Jigme Tshulthrim.
~Bhutan Travel Agency, headed by Mr. Wangcha Sangey of Haa. Interestingly, this Agency had a marketing office based in New York City, as of 1980. It was headed by a lady named Ms. Marie Brown, who was designated Regional Manager. The appointment seems to have been terminated towards the end of the 80’s.

The DoT’s name was changed to Bhutan Tourism Corporation (BTC), in 1984. In 1986, Dasho Tseten Dorji was transferred to the Department of Agriculture and Jigme Tshulthrim took over the reigns of the organization. Throughout these transitions, the tourism organization functioned as a tour operator with tourism activity as its core function.

Finally in 1991 tourism business was privatized and the BTC ceased to exist as a tour operator and assumed the role of a regulator – and took on the name Tourism Authority of Bhutan (TAB).

The first head of the regulatory authority was Mr. Thinley Dorji – more popularly known as Motithang Thinley. Other heads of the organizations were: Tshering Yonten, Tshering Phuntsho, Sangay Wangdi, Lhatu Wangchuk, Kesang Wangdi, Chhimmi Pem and now the incumbent DG Dorji Dradul.

It was during the tenure of Kesang Wangdi that the TAB became autonomous and took on the name: Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB). Before that, the tourism organization was put under a number of parent Ministries, as follows:

DoT :Ministry of Finance
TCO:Ministry of Communications
BTC:Ministry of Trade, Industries & Forests
TAB:Ministry of Trade, Industries & Forests
TCB:Autonomous under a Council headed by the Prime Minister

The Department of Tourism started with the following properties:

Motithang Hotel, Thimphu
Olathang Hotel, Paro
Kharbandi Hotel, Phuentsholing
Chasilakha Rest House/Tea House, Chhukha

All these properties were created to cater to the VIPs who would attend the Coronation of His Majesty the IVth King of Bhutan, on 2nd June, 1974.

I was then manning the Bank of Bhutan’s cash counter at the Motithang Hotel, Thimphu, in my capacity as the Head Clerk of the Bank. The desk was established to provide currency conversion services to the guests. I remember meeting His Majesty Palden Thondup Namgyal, last Chogyal of Sikkim. I also met the boisterous American Ambassador H.E. Daniel P. Moynihan. He was so lively that after so many years, I can still remember his name.

History Of Tourism In Bhutan: PART I

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The Creation of Department of Tourism (DoT)
Going by written records available, there is proof that the Department of Tourism (DoT) was created in 1971, as a Department under the Ministry of Finance. Her Royal Highness Ashi Sonam Choden Wangchuck, His Majesty’s Representative in the Ministry of Finance, signed the order.

However, living witnesses bear testimony to the fact that there was no tourism activity for the next 2 years following the creation of the DoT. The only visitors to the country then were guests of the Royal Family and, in very rare cases, those of the Royal Government of Bhutan.

It was not until 1974 that the first-ever paying tourist group entered Bhutan.

Before I proceed further into the historical background of the development of tourism in the country, I feel it is necessary to put on record the following:

A resolution adopted during the 36th Session of the National Assembly on 7th June, 1972 reads as following:

22.  MATTER RELATING TO TOURISM ACT
In view of the likelihood that, despite being in its initial stage of development, Bhutan would attract a large number of tourists, the Cabinet had prepared a draft of rules governing tourism in the country. After due consideration of the same, the Assembly accorded its approval.

From the above, it becomes clear that a Tourism Act was tabled in the National Assembly and duly approved in 1972. So then where is that Act? And why are we talking of enacting a new Tourism Act?



History Of Tourism In Bhutan: PART II

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The Evolution & Structure of the DoT
One of Bhutan’s senior tourism personalities - Robin Wangdi - remembers that the Department of Tourism, headed by Dasho Tseten Dorji as its Director, functioned as a commercial tour operator since tourism activity began in 1974.

Mr. Robin Wangdi, one of the earliest tourism personalities of the country. He joined the industry in 1979.

Initially the DoT was structured as follows:

~Dasho Tseten Dorji, first Director of the DoT;
~Sonam Dhendup Tshering, in his capacity as the Administrative Officer, he was No. 2 in the DoT
   and looked after the entire operation of the DoT during its initial phase of operation.

The Department was later restructured as follows:

~Hotel Division, headed by Sonam Dhendup Tshering;
~Tourism Project Division, headed by late Dorji Gyaltshen;
~Tourism Commercial Organization, headed by Jigme Tshulthrim;
~Bhutan Travel Agency, headed by Wangcha Sangey;

Bhutan Travel Service, New York, USA was established in 1980. It was headed by a lady
   named Ms. Marie Brown, who was designated Regional Manager.

~Bhutan Travel Service, Calcutta, India was established in 1982, headed by Karchung as the
   Senior Tourism Officer, with Dhendup Tshering as the Liaison Officer. 

~Bhutan Travel Service, New Delhi was established in 1985, headed by the
   Regional Manager, Dominic Sitling.

In 1982, Bhutan Tourism Corporation (BTC) was created as a Division under the DoT - to take over its commercial operations. The DoT remained as the controlling authority responsible for policy issues. Subsequently, in 1985, Dasho Tseten Dorji was moved to Department of Animal Husbandry and Jigme Tshulthrim took over the reigns of the organization. It was at this time that the DoT was renamed Bhutan Tourism Corporation (BTC) – as a corporation of the Royal Government. Throughout these transitions, the tourism organization functioned as a tour operator with tourism activity as its core function.

Finally in 1991 tourism business was privatized and the BTC ceased to exist as a tour operator. This effectively ended the government’s monopoly over the tourism trade in the country.

The Demise Of The DoT/BTC
With the privatization of the tourism trade in the country, the government’s tourism organization morphed into a regulatory authority – it was renamed Tourism Authority of Bhutan (TAB) in 1991.

The first head of the Authority was Yeshey Norbu, currently the CEO of Norbu Bhutan Travel Private Limited. He spearheaded the formation of the TAB as a regulatory authority. He resigned in 1994 and moved to head the private sector Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited (BTCL).

He was succeeded by Thinley Dorji – more popularly known as Motithang Thinley. Other heads of the organizations were: Tshering Yonten, Tshering Phuntsho, Sangay Wangdi, Lhatu Wangchuk, Tshering Yonten (second term), Kesang Wangdi, Chhimmy Pem and now the incumbent Director General Dorji Dradul.

For a short period following the transfer of Kesang Wangdi, Thuji Nadik acted as the Director of TCB. However he could not be promoted to full-fledged Director of the organization, given his classification as a Specialist.

It was during the tenure of Kesang Wangdi that the TAB became an autonomous organization and took on the name Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB). Before that, the tourism organization was put under a number of parent Ministries, as follows:

DoT :1971 - 1982   Ministry of Finance
BTC:1982 - 1991   Ministry of Communications
TAB:1991 - 2000Ministry of Trade, Industries & Forests
DoT:2000 - 2008   Ministry of Trade & Industries
TCB:2008 -            Autonomous under a Council headed by the Prime Minister

The Ministry of Finance built the following properties for the Coronation of the Fourth King of Bhutan. The DoT/BTC was allowed the use of these properties:

Motithang Hotel, Thimphu
Bhutan Hotel, Thimphu
Olathang Hotel, Paro
Kharbandi Hotel, Phuentsholing
Chasilakha Rest House/Tea House, Chhukha

Upon privatization of the tourism business, some of these properties were sold to the BTCL.

It is quite remarkable that even while being not very highly educated, Dasho Tseten Dorji as the Director of DoT had the foresight to create a number of tourism related properties as far back as the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. These properties were:

1.Phajoding Cafeteria
2.Dochu-La Cafeteria
3.Wangdue Guest House
4.Trongsa Jigmeling Tourist Lodge
5.Bumthang Tourist Lodge
6.Mongaar Guest House
7.Trashigang Tourist Lodge
8.Samdrupjongkhar Guest House
9.Sharna Trekking Lodge
10.Thangthangka Trekking Lodge
11.Jangothang Trekking Lodge
12.Lingzhi Trekking Lodge
13.Shodu Trekking Lodge
14.Barshong Trekking Lodge

Karchung, the erstwhile Trekking Manager of DoT/BTC laments that all these properties have been allowed to go to ruin, particularly the trekking lodges. All these trekking lodges are no longer in existence.

History Of Tourism In Bhutan: PART III of V

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First Tour Guides
Ten of Bhutan's earliest tour guides were recruited on 1st January, 1974. They were:

1.Gandhi Nawang Dorji of Nawang Woods
2.Nim Gyaltshen of Etho Metho Tours
3.Karchung of Lhomen Tours
4.Late Kheng Sonam
5.Aku Chewang
6.Pema Chophel
7.Tseten Gyeltshen
8.Late Kinley Wangdi
9.Rapey Kinga
10.Kunzang Wangchuk

These ten received rudimentary guiding training so that they could be used to take care of the VIPs attending the Coronation ceremony of 2nd June, 1974.

First Tour Group
Bhutan’s first paying tourist group arrived Bhutan on 2nd October, 1974. The group was led by an American of Swedish descend - Lars-Eric Lindblad, founder of Lindblad Travel, Connecticut, USA. There were 12 in the group.


Lars-Eric Lindblad who led the first-ever tour group to Bhutan in 1974

Bhutan’s First Cultural Guides
Gandhi Nawang Dorjiand Tseten Gyeltshen were the country’s first two cultural guides. They guided Bhutan’s first tour group led by the American Lars-Eric Lindblad.

Gandhi Nawang Dorji, one of the two first cultural guides who guided Bhutan's first tour group in 1974

Dominic Sitling recalls that the tour group entered Bhutan through India, organized by the Company Chairman Mr. Rana of Mercury Travels, New Delhi.

Nim Gyaltshen, one of Bhutan's first 10 tour guides - now a part-owner of Etho Metho - remembers that tour leader Lars-Eric Lindblad paid the tour cost in CASH. Electronic transfer of funds was unheard of during those early days.

Mr. Karma Sonam was a guesthouse waiter at the government guesthouse in Motithang, in the year 1971 - when he was just 19 years old. He now operates a laundry service in Thimphu. He recalls that the first Director of the Department of Tourism was late Dasho Tseten Dorji - who also doubled as the Personal Secretary to HRH Ashi Sonam Choden Wanghuck.

Karma Sonam as he looks now, at 67 years of age

Karma Sonam vividly remembers that Dasho Tseten Dorji went down all the way to Kharbandi Hotel in Phuentsholing - to conduct Bhutan’s first tour group, headed by Lars-Eric Lindblad to Thimphu. The group stopped at Chasilakha Rest House where they were served tea. Karma Sonam carried lunch from Thimphu and met the group at the Chapcha View Point called Zem-La.

Karma Sonam does not remember if the tour group attended Thimphu Dromche/Tsechu - but I believe that they would have - which would explain their choice of October month to make the trip to Bhutan. However, a team member who looked after the group by the name ofGopa Yesheyremembers that they visited Punakha where they were put up in a tented camp at Zomlingthang.

First Trek and Trek Route
Trekking began in Bhutan for the first time in 1976. The Trek route was Druk Path. There were 10 in the group.


First Trekking Guide
Karchung of Lhomen Tours was the first trekking guide - he guided the first trekking group that did the Druk Path Trek in 1976. He was supported by Gopa Yeshey as the organizer, and late Meme Tawla and Tek Bahadur as cooks.




Karchung of Lhomen Tours & Trekking was the first trekking guide who guided Bhutan's first trek group on the Druk Path, in 1976

The second trek route was the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek. It was opened up in 1980. The third trek route was the Laya/Linzhi/Snowman Trek. It was opened in 1984.

First Whitewater Descent
Bhutan’s first whitewater descent was in 1981 - arranged by Bhutan Travel Service, USA. The 3-members whitewater rafting team was comprised of Wick Walker, Eric Evans and Jamie McEwan - all known luminaries in the whitewater rafting circles.

First Pony Contractors
Gopa Yeshey clearly remembers that the Ministry of Finance provided the pack ponies for the trek in 1976. Thus the honor should go to the Ministry of Finance as the first pony contractors in the country. During those days, Ministry of Finance maintained a barren of mules for carriage of government stores around the country. The mules were under the care of caretake Aap Tsetse.

First Private Pony Contractors
Gopa Yeshey recalls that after the first Druk Path Trek, ponies for the subsequent treks were arranged through Phuntsho Wangdi of Paro. The second pony contractor was also from Paro - one Sonam Rinchen.

First Overseas Tour Agents
Dominic Sitling recalls that the first four overseas tour agents who worked with DoT/BTC were:

1.  Mercury Travels, India
2.  Ms. Marie Brown, Bhutan Travel Service, USA
3.  Travel Corporation of India, India
4.  Sita World Travel, India

Bhutan Travel Service, USA looked after the US market while the rest of the three Indian agents covered Europe, Japan and the South East.

First FAM Group
Bhutan’s first FAM group was organized in 1980, by Bhutan Travel Service, USA. It comprised of a group of 100 tour and travel related people.

Bhutan’s First Tourism Sub-Contractors
Although tourism trade was a monopoly of the government, there were already some private tour operators operating in the country, even before the privatization of the business in 1991. Bhutan’s first five tourism sub-contractors were, in order of establishment, the following:

1.  International Treks & Tours Private Ltd.
2.  Yu-Druk Tours & Treks, 1985
3.  Chundu Travel & Tours, 1986
4.  Yangphel Adventure Travel, 1988
5.  Etho Metho Tours & Treks Pvt. Ltd., 1990

They are categorized as sub-contractors, and not as tour operators, since they were not licensed to operate tours. The erstwhile government owned BTC sub-contracted portions of their business to these pioneering operators - particularly trekking, since they did not have enough manpower to handle it all themselves. All of these companies subsequently became tour companies, upon privatization of the tourism business in 1991.

If monopolizing the business were not enough, the government was heavy-handed in other ways. For instance, at one point the Auditor General of the Royal Audit Authority called the owner of Yu-Druk to his office and ordered her to shut down her business - on the grounds that she was married to a civil servant. She refused - saying that her business did not interfere with her husband’s work. If at all, he could ask her husband to resign from the civil service.

It is heartwarming to know that these pioneering tour operators are still in existence, and all doing very well, THANK YOU.

History Of Tourism In Bhutan: PART IV of V

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Privatization of Tourism Business
There were some truly significant interventions by His Majesty the 4th Druk Gyalpo - in areas of business and trade. I recall that one of the most significant was the nationalization of cardamom plantation and timber trade, in 1979. The other was the de-monopolization of dealerships - a policy that was well intended - unfortunately, very poorly implemented by the Trade Ministry. But privatization of tourism business has got to be the most impactful. Unfortunately, yet again, the government hashed it up during implementation, although it self-corrected eventually.

Late Gaseb Dorji Gyeltshen of the DoT/BTC masterminded the privatization of Bhutan’s tourism business. He is credited as the brains and the moving force behind the tourism privatization initiative. It resulted in the emergence of the private sector monopoly that came to be known as Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited (BTCL), in 1991. This entity exists to this day - with the same name.

In a sense the BTCL is the direct offshoot of the erstwhile BTC of the government, because it inherited all the business of the BTC. Like its predecessor the BTC, BTCL aspired to be a monopoly. And they did - for a very short while. Unfortunately, the floodgates were open and there was no stopping the spillage. As the inheritors of the monopoly that was the BTC, the BTCL took it upon themselves to be the sole player in the game. That wasn’t to be - other private operators, some of whom were playing the field as early as the early 80’s, were up in arms. They complained bitterly to the government against the monopolization of the business. The government relented. But true to character, they once again hashed it up.

Instead of de-monopolizing the business entirely, they limited the issue of tour operators’ license to just - 33.

The tourism business was emerging as one of the most lucrative businesses - but there were no licenses to be had. The government  had put a freeze on the issue of new licenses. There was a cap put on place - at 33 licenses. No new licenses were being issued - a situation ripe for manipulation by the immoral and the unethical. That is what happened - tour operators' licenses came to be sold in the black market, like the vehicle quotas, at premiums as high as 2 million Ngultrums per license. That ended when the government decided to remove the cap, as of 2000.

The major and initial promoters of the BTCL, during its formative years were:

1.  Late Gasep Dorji Gyeltshen
2.  Dasho Ugyen Dorji of Lhaki Group
3.  Late Yub Ugyen Dorji
4.  Late Lhenkey Gyeltshen
5.  Aum Namgey Om
6.  Aum Shekhar
7.  Pasang Dorji of Karma Steel
8.  Omtey Penjore of Yarkey Group

There were other investors in the company - but they were minor shareholders.

By 2001, the total number of tour operators' licenses had spiraled to a total of 116 registered tour operators. However, only 80 of them were active. Of these, the top 10 operators handled 67% of the business.

History Of Tourism In Bhutan: PART V of V

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Tour Operation Licensing
The earliest tour operator was the DoT/BTC. I suspect that they did not even have a license to conduct tourism business. When the business was privatized in 1991, the only officially authorized tour operator was the private sector monopoly - Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited (BTCL). Other operators were categorized as sub-contractors, without the right to operate tours independently. That situation changed - after the government relented and a total of 33 tour operators came into being.

Along with a cap on licenses at 33, knowingly or unknowingly, the government discouraged competition by keeping the license fee very high. When the cap of 33 was in force, the license fee was as following:

1.Registration Fee             Nu.     1,000.00
2.Annual License Fee       Nu.   25,000.00
3.Security Deposit            Nu. 100,000.00
        TOTAL.                       Nu. 126,000.00

The security deposit requirement was done away with, in 2000 that resulted in a surge in numbers of licenses issued - from 33 in the 1990’s, to 116 by 2001.

Minimum Daily Tariff
The steady growth of the tourism industry in Bhutan should be credited to the sound policy of “High-Value Low-Volume” adopted from day one of the start of tourism business in the country. It helped keep away the backpacking variety of tourists, while ensuring that there was no pressure on the environment. The policy was also intended to prevent cultural dilution. Few may recall that those days when Bhutan embarked on the journey of tourism, the Hippie culture was overwhelming neighboring Nepal.

The High-Value Low-Volume policy when initially adopted was intended to keep the “volume low” through high tariff imposition. More recently, this policy has been rephrased to read “High-Value Low-Impact”. While the government has been truly imaginative in rewording the policy to suite the changing needs, it has failed to be equally imaginative - in preparing for the “high volume” inflow of “low impact” tourists. Other than the unregulated burgeoning of hotel rooms, the country’s carrying capacity in other areas is totally mismatched.

The Minimum Daily Tariff was fixed at the following rates:

1974US$130.00 per person per night halt
1989US$ 200.00 per person per night halt
2012US$250.00 per person per night halt

It is remarkable that in the last 45 years, there have been only two tariff changes.

Visa Application Process
THERE WAS NONE - because those days Bhutan did not have a system of issuing Visas. However, since the tourists had to enter Bhutan overland through the restricted Indian territory of West Bengal, the DoT/BTC had to obtain a Restricted Area Permit called “Innerline Permit”. This was issued from New Delhi. This was a real problem and took anywhere up to six months to obtain.

The process of clearing the Innerline Permit from New Delhi was tedious because those heady days there was no Internet, no Fax machines, no Telex or Telegram. The information had to be conveyed to the Royal Bhutanese Embassy in New Delhi - over the Wireless sets - in Morse codes. The clearance of the Innerline Permits was also relayed over wireless. Much later, Telegrams and Telex communications came into being.

Tour Payment
During the early days, most often, tour payments used to be received in CASH. After few years, bank drafts were used, including depositing into the Bank of Bhutan’s bank accounts in select Indian cities.

Dominic Sitling remembers that he had to make regular trips to Bombay, Calcutta and New Delhi, to collect outstanding tour payments from tour agents.

All tour payments were deposited with the Ministry of Finance. The DoT/BTC was given annual budgets to cover their administrative costs and to pay for expenses to host tourists.

Tourist Arrivals
The first year of start of tourism in Bhutan (1974) saw a number of 274 tourist arrivals. By end 2001, the number had shot up to 6,393 arrivals, in 2001.

Number of Tour Guides
There were 10 tour guides in 1974. The number today stands over 4,300.

Total Number of Tour Operators
In 1974 when the tourism business started, there was only one unlicensed tour operator. As of this year, the number of tour operation licenses registered with the TCB stands at around 2,700.

ENDNOTE
Tourism is among Bhutan’s most vital industries - even more vital than hydropower, as it stands now. Unlike hydropower, tourism is a net gain industry - there is no punishing loans and interest to be paid to foreign governments. It is the biggest employer - many, many folds more than the hydropower. Its benefit is accrued across the whole spectrum of the Bhutanese society - pony drivers, vegetable vendors, farmers, vehicle owners, hoteliers, guides, drivers, shop owners, weavers, Thanka painters etc.

But this industry is now in danger of being besieged with a multiple of problems - the most damaging with serious long-term implications being the emergence of FRONTING. Surprisingly, this is barely spoken about. Undercutting is another - but this is a malice that will be difficult to control, for the simple reason that in most cases, it cannot be proven.

The root cause of most of the above problems is: poor regulation and enforcement by the regulator: Tourism Council of Bhutan. Undercutting happens because the business is unregulated. Bad debt happens because there is poor regulation. Poor service delivery happens because there is no regulation. Guides don’t wear their badges even when required by rules, because there is no regulation. The rampant incidences of accommodating tourists in unauthorized accommodations happen because there is poor regulation.

The Tourism Council and the government talk of billions of ngulturns to do flagships and starships, and yet the regulatory authority that oversees an industry that generates millions of dollars laments that they do not have money to induct 10-20 inspectors to improve the system. It is for this reason that I adamantly refuse to blog on the matter relating to removal of Zhemgang from the tourism flagship program. It will not matter in the least bit.

But now there is another elephant in the room - the tendency to be confused between the need to control, as opposed to the need to regulate. The crushing numbers of the regional tourists is causing some to be very jumpy, unduly.

It is time that we bring to focus our new mantra - “High Value Low Impact” tourism. I do not believe that the need to tweak the original mantra was because there was a need to curtail volume. I think the collective aspiration was to keep increasing the volume, while ensuring that there is the least bit of impact on the environment, our living spaces, on our road network, parking spaces, and cultural and religious sites. Today the reality is that the carrying capacity has not kept pace with the progress of the industry, other than the hotel industry. In rest of the service chain, there is complete mismatch. Look at our domestic airports - it is shameful and dangerous - they are not equipped with Bowsers. The national flag carrier has completely deviated from its principal responsibility. Today it is coerced into exacting a heavy cost on the tourism industry. They have lost track of the reason why they are the national flag carrier.

Our problem is that we are forever stuck at talking - it is time that we graduate to doing. We have screwed up our hydropower policy – lets not do it with tourism.

Today regional tourism is a topic that is flogged at every occasion. I wonder if there is another way of looking at it? Say, as an opportunity? Isn’t it possible that we could come up with ways and means whereby neither the snake is killed, nor the stick is broken?

END OF SERIES

The March of Money: Part IX - ADDENDUM

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In my post on the March of Money, some information were left out. And there were some inaccuracies. Please refer to my post: The March of Money: Part VI


The list of terms we used for our money was incomplete. The list has since been updated as follows:

Maar-tum          - red coin or copper coin
Zung-tum          - bronze coin
Ser-tum               - gold coin
Debai Tikchung - silver coin
Tiru                     - money
Thala                   - half money
Shiki                    - quarter money
Ngultrum            - silver coin
Chettrum            - half coin

The most extensively used coin before the paper money came into being in 1974 was the Thala which was denominated “Jatum Ched” and coined since 1928. Going by how the term was spelt, the literal translation of this term would be: “Ja (Jaga) Tum (Coin) Ched (Half)” meaning Half Indian Rupee.

A knowledgeable senior citizen argues that the terms "Ngultrum" and "Chettrum" should have never been coined and applied to our currency. According to him, it is incorrect. He explained that "Ngultrum" means "Silver Coin" and "Chettrum" means "Half Coin". According to him, paper money is not coin and half coin cannot be a unit of currency.

Another knowledgeable person I spoke to said that our paper money should rightly be called “Shoglor” meaning Shog (paper) Lor (money).

The other very popular silver coin that was in use those days was the "Boetum". I removed it from the above list since I realized that "Boe" means Tibet. So it is not our coin. I pointed this out to some one in our National Museum, Paro, when I went there to look at their collection of coins and found that the Boetum was on display in their display case.

Tibetan silver coin that was known as Boetum

Zhemgang Dzongkhag Unplucked!

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As a Zhemgangpa (please to the note: I am not using the term Khengpa) I am under pressure from a number of people to blog on the issue of Zhemgang being unceremoniously removed from the tourism flagship program. I cannot understand what the brouhaha over the issue is all about. Have these people understood that under the flagship program, each of the four designated Dzongkhags is supposed to get a funding allocation of Nu.11.00 million each? Now ask yourselves - what does this generous Nu.11.00 million amount to?

ALL OF 4 PRADO QUOTAS TO 4 PARLIAMENTARIANS

That is all Nu.11.00 million is worth, nothing more, nothing less!

If anyone were to make noise over the issue, there should be two reasons:

1.  It is an insult of some kind to the Zhemgangpas – because we have been replaced by a Dzongkhag that is
     in the tourism negative list. Imagine!
2.  It is unconstitutional, once the matter has been passed by the NA.

Other than the above two, the unflagging of Zhemgang Dzongkhag will not matter in the least. In Thimphu Nu.11.00 million won’t build a three-storied building.

There – I did my duty as a Zhemgangpa. RIP


Zhemgang Dzong with the Black Mountain range in the background

The Whiskey In This Bar Surely Must Taste Ethereal

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In a land filled with half-hearted people, I was so encouraged to see someone put in so much effort to do a good job.

Look at the extent of trouble he went to, to design and fabricate his Bar’s signboard. It is simply beautiful! The person must surely be a fastidious one. Look at the detailing of the K5 bottle and the box. Simply exquisite!

I hope the Bar is doing great business. Readers, please go take a swig!

Hand-carved with love: What a masterpiece of a Signboard

What Are Those Dang Lines?

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Every time I see a traffic cop issuing a traffic violation ticket to a driver, I am a happy man. I stop my car and go to the Traffic Copper and give him a gusty THUBS UP and tell him; “Don’t Excuse Her/Him”.

Hazard Light
Quite obviously, a majority of the Bhutanese drivers seem to confuse the Hazard-Warning Lamp for that of a Parking Lamp. Even worst, they seem to think that flashing the Hazard-Warning Light in a NO PARKING area will absolve them of the offense of illegal parking. It is pathetic to watch the offenders beg and plead with the Copper when they are booked. But one has to understand that discipline on the road saves lives - and eases traffic congestion that is reaching crisis proportions in Thimphu and Phuentsholing.

The issue is clear: if the erring driver did not know the rules, then he/she has no business being on the road. If the driver did know the rules and still committed the offense - then that is even worst - he/she should be locked up in the slammer and the keys thrown into the Thimchhu. Either way, she/he is a danger to life.

This is a Hazard Light Switch - not a Parking Light Switch 

When should you use Hazard-Warning Lights?
These are a pair of intermittent flashing indicator lights that flash in unison. They are intended to warn other drivers that your vehicle is a temporary obstruction. They are also called Hazard Flashers and Hazard Lights. You are expected to use them if your vehicle is broken down on the side of a road, or you are changing a tyre on a shoulder of the road. You should also use them when your vehicle is being towed. IT IS NOT TO BE USED AS A PARKING LIGHT!

Illegal Parking - Flashing Hazard Lights won't Help


Bang In The Center Of The Road
The other strange thing that I have noticed is that a large number of drivers seem to think of the solid/broken white Road Diving Line in the center of the road, as an indicator for them to align their vehicle bang center on the road. How strange! Actually doing so is tantamount to infringing on the right lane, which is a violation.

You can see that the vehicle is a Taxi - meaning that the driver has a professional driving license. Imagine!

Another problem with the Bhutanese drivers who drive on multi-lane roads in Thimphu is that they are clueless about the rules that govern the use of the right lane and the left lane. I do not know if this is excusable - since 90% of them would not have driven on a multi-lane road before. What drivers should know is that the faster traffic should take the right lane and the slower traffic should take the left lane.

Thimphu's multi-lane highway - Many are clueless as to which lane to use when

You must always overtake from the right – overtaking from the left is illegal. Sometimes one fast driver overtakes from the left to get in front of the vehicle in the front. That is not correct. You must flash your headlamp (honking is rude) to indicate to the driver in front of you to indicate he should either drive faster or allow you to get ahead.


There are many types of lines and with different colors, marked on the roads. One has to understand that those lines were marked - spending millions of public money - they are not cosmetics for the road. They do have very import messages.

Single Solid White Edge/Boundary Line
Generally outside boundary line close to the shoulder of a road. Parking inside the white solid line is not allowed. In Bhutan, all cars must be parked outside it.


Single Solid White Line in the Center of the Road
When you see this unbroken solid white line in the center of the road, it means that you are not allowed to cross it or change lane. Overtaking is NOT ALLOWED.

Single Solid White Line in the center: Overtaking is NOT ALLOWED

Broken White Line in the Center/Shoulder of the Road
When you see broken lines in the middle or edge of the road, you can cross it and change lanes. However, some broken white lines end in a solid line - most often at bends and blind curves. When you see that, you cannot change lane or overtake. Parking on the  road shoulder is allowed - whether paved or unpaved.

Two different types of lines - broken and solid

Zebra Crossing
Where there is a marking to indicate that it is a Zebra Crossing, know that the pedestrians get right of way.

Zebra Crossing - Pedestrians get right of way

Jay Walking
In most countries of the world, Jay Walking is an offense. Singapore perhaps has the highest fine for Jay Walking: $50.00 for first time offender – repeat offenders can be fined as high as $1,000.00 or Nu.50,000.00.

Jay Walking - A bad and dangerous habit. Here you could end up with a dislocated knee-cap

In Bhutan I have not yet seen Jay Walkers being fined although Traffic Police do warn the Jay Walkers to use the Zebra Crossing. If you do Jay Walk, you could end up getting your knee cap dislodged.

The March Of Money: Part X

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Ngulturm/Chettrum not proper terms to describe our currency notes and coins
One expert on ancient coins of Bhutan, Mr. Wolfgang Bertsch, explains that the term “Ngultrum” is a combination of two words:

Ngul=Silver
Trum=Tangka

The term “Tangka” refers to a Tibetan silver coin that has been coined since the mid 1600’s.

The indigenous Tibetan Kong-par Tangka
They were struck within the country from 1791 to 1891. Earlier versions of the coins known simply as Tangas were struck in Nepal from 1640.


I believe that the term “Chettrum” is also a combination of two words:

Chet=Half
Trum=Tangka

It seems like we made a terrible blunder in the early 1970’s when we adopted the terms “Ngultrum” to denote our paper currency, and “Chettrum” to denote our coins. “Silver Coin” cannot be used to describe a paper currency, and it is impossible to denominate a coin with “Half Coin”. Imagine: 10 CH would actually mean: 10 Half Coins. And, Nu.10.00 would mean: 10 Silver Coins.

The Central Bank - The Royal Monetary Authority of Bhutan should immediately consider changing these names - to those that are purely Bhutanese in origin.

There is actually a term “Tikru” that was in use which is understood to mean “Money”. But when I consulted a local expert – Ex-MP Rinchen Dorji of Trongsa, he stated that the word “Tikru” is borrowed from two independent words:

Tikchang + Rupiya = TikRu

Ex-MP Rinchen says that the term finds mention in the “Biography of 13th Druk Desi Sherab Wangchuk”. So the word Tikru would not be appropriate.

What about “Lore”? Remember this term is still in use, as follows:

Chaang Lore

Ngig Lore

Nga Lore

Chuu Lore

Khae Lore

Ja Lore

Tong Lore

What is “Lore”? From the above it obviously means currency Note. So, it is provably proper to term our paper currency as “ShogLore”. Shog ofcoure means “Paper” in Bhutanese (we Khengpas pronounce it: “Shokshog”.

The March Of Money: Part XI

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One English gentleman reader of my Blog was hugely tickled that I started my post with:

In a land filled with half-hearted people, ……..” 


But he agrees that I am 100% spot on! What I am going to tell you on this post will prove me, and him right beyond doubt!

Immediately after Mr. Wolfgang Bertsch of Germany, an expert on ancient Bhutanese coins read my Blog “The March of Money: Part VIII”, he mailed me as follows:

Dear Yeshey Dorji,

“……… It was very nice of John to introduce us to you and your highly interesting blog on Bhutanese currency.

I did not find the time to read everything carefully, but one detail drew my attention:

When discussing some modern coins of 1974 and 1979 you mention spelling mistakes, referring to the Western legends. What is more interesting is the fact that the Bhutanese spelling on the coin of 1974 is "phyed tam" (with reversed letter "ta"), while it has been changed to "phyed kram" on the 1979 coins. I transliterate using the Whylie System.  While the first spelling is also known from Tibetan coins, the latter spelling seems to be used only on Bhutanese coins. Both spellings try to render the retroflex letter "ta" (normally transliterated with a dot underneath the letter) which is unknown in native words of both Tibetan and Bhutanese……..”

Kindest regards
Wolfgang Bertsch

One look at my Blog post and Wolfgang immediately observed that as of 1979, we had spelt our coins wrongly as “Chekram”:


The coins of 1974 and earlier were correctly spelt as "Chettrum":


If you look at our second lot of paper currency printed and released in 1978 and thereafter, we see that the Dzongkha version of the word “Ngultrum” has also been spelt “Ngulkram”:


I cannot read Dzongkha - I can speak it haltingly. So I went to see a local expert by the name of Lopen Kunzang Thinley. I told him what Wolfgang had said – that the word “Tam” has been wrongly spelt as “Kram”. He took a look and said;

“Mr. Wolfgang is correct. The spelling is wrong”.

I was perplexed! I said to him;

“But the coins of pre-1978 coinage are correctly spelt as “Tam”. How did the word change to “Kram” after 1978?

Lopen Kunzang thought for a while and said;

“I think I know why - it must have been as a result of the mechanical Dzongkha typewriters that were introduced into the country. The earliest versions of the typewriters did not have the alphabet reversed “Tah”:


I remember because when I used the Dzongkha typewriter to compose my writings, I had to leave a space into which I would later manually insert the alphabet reversed “Tah”, in hand. The absence of the alphabet reversed “Tah” would have forced people to spell the word with the combination “Ka-ra-ta-Tra + Mah”:
not realizing that when spelt thus, the pronunciation would be “Kram” and not “Tam”, as pointed out by Wolfgang.”

The mistakes never got corrected - not even after the alphabet reversed “Tah” was included in the later versions of the mechanical typewrites. The electronic keyboard of the computers also has the alphabet reversed “Tah”. But the mistakes to this day has not been corrected - true half-hearted Bhutanese that we are! It has been more than four decades since the mistake was first committed.



I cannot believe that in more than forty years, authorities did not see the terrible mistakes with the naming of our currencies, and the wrong spellings. We claim to have few hundred Lams, an equal number of Geyshes and Khenpos, and few thousand Rinpoches and Trulkus, and Doctorates in Buddhist Theology ….. Not one of them saw the flaws? I can understand that for the half-hearted mind, “Ngultrum” and “Chettrum” could prove to be little too taxing to decipher. But none of these learned people observed the wrong spelling until a hawk-eyed German had to point it out to us, after more than 4 decades? I mean we handle the currency notes on a daily basis!

So, now that it has been pointed out to us, we have absolutely no reason NOT to make amends. Are we going to do it? Or, true to character, will the RMA do nothing to correct the mistakes – because it is no money into their pockets.

Thank You Note From The Rotary Foundation (TRF)

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The Rotary is the world’s biggest Club - it has presence in over 200 countries numbering over 33,000 Clubs. Its Membership stands at over 1.2 million, worldwide. In Bhutan we have one Club: The Rotary Club of Thimphu, with 28 Members as of July 1, 2019.

I just received a mail from The Rotary Foundation, Evanston, Illinois, USA, recognizing our Club’s contribution to the Rotary cause. It is a BIG DAY for the Rotary Club of Thimphu and its 28 Members, for being noted for our contributions. My name appears on the Recognition Mail since in my capacity as the Club’s Secretary, I serve as the Primary Contact for all the Foundation’s many Grants to Bhutan.

Please double click on the image to enlarge it:

Note of Thank You from The Rotary Foundation (TRF)

The truth ofcourse is that we - Bhutan and the Bhutanese people - receive a thousand fold more than what our Club Members contribute to the Foundation. For proof of the Foundation’s giving to us, look at the following:

Most of the above has been achieved from the Grants our Club received from The Rotary Foundation

Thank you The Rotary Foundation. You continue to make a difference in the lives of the Bhutanese people. Even as I write this, there is a Rotary Foundation Grant of US$ 51,000.00 being implemented to benefit a Farmers’ Group in Bongo Gewog, Chhukha Dzongkhag: in the agriculture sector.

The March Of Money: Part XII

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No Have Change – Will Slice Into Half
One never knows when one’s life can take a sudden turn into unchartered territory. I am making amazing discoveries, as a result of my recent interest in the history of coinage in Bhutan, and how currency evolved in the country. And, here too, I am yet again discovering the utter callousness of the Bhutanese attitude.

Starting from the very first milled silver coins of 1928 to the present, our coins and currency notes have been full of mistakes - every one of them. Ninety-one years since modern coinage began, the mistakes remain uncorrected.

It was the legendary American radio amateur Gus Browning who first broke the news of Bhutan’s braking dogs problem to the Western world when he filed a report about his experience at the Paro Tsechu in 1965. The problem today is even more severe than it was 54 years back. Typical! But today I want to speak of something that is very interesting.

I know that very, very few readers would have heard of what I am going to tell. My relentless search for old Bhutanese coins and information about them resulted in my finding the following strangely shaped coin. It is a silver coin.

Cut into half to convert to small change

I did not know what to make of it. Thus I sent an image of it to my consultant/expert Wolfgang in Germany. To my utter consternation, he explained as follows:

“Your coin is a cut Tangka of Pratap Simha, second Shah King who ruled from Kathmandu, Nepal. It was cut (most probably in Tibet) to make small change and represents 1 Shokang or 2/3 of Tangka.”

What he is saying is that the Tibetans would cut up a coin to convert it into half or one third/fourth value of the original coin. This means if they needed a Thala (half a Tikru) they would slice the coin into half. And if they wanted a Shiki, they would cut up the coin into 4 equal parts.

Nepalese coins were legal tender in Tibet. But the Tibetans were naughty and cut up the Nepalese coins - to turn them into small change. Ofcourse the Nepalese did not like the idea. It resulted in the Treaty of Khasa of 1790AD in which it was agreed that “mohars issued by Shri Shri Shri Shri Shri Gorkha (Maharajadhiraja) shall not be cut into small parts”.

The fact that I have been able to find this cut coin here in the country would mean that these were in use in Bhutan as well, along with all the other coins from Assam, British India, China, Cooch Bihar French India and Tibet. Meaning even Nepalese coins were legal tender in Bhutan.
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